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All aboard to meet the LSOL.com Review Crew – the time-tested experts who keep you on track with all the latest news, reviews and how-tos you need for livin’ large-scale.

 
Jon DeKeles
Editor in Chief
He may seem like big bad Jon, but that’s because he’s a man of steel – born with trains and technology in his blood. No surprise he engineered the gene splice that gave birth to LSOL.com.

 
JD Miller
Reviews Editor
The original tinkerer, JD took apart his first watch in 4th grade and now he’s having the time of his life taking apart trains to show you what’s inside.

 
Rick Henderson
Associate Editor
Rick has more model train experience than Jon has years. He's LSOL.com's jack-of-all-trades from almost day one. He's reviewed, sold retail, and built trains, too. He's not grumpy, just focused.

 
Noel Widdifield
Managing Editor
Since he’s a card-carrying member of the NMRA and TCA, we all yield right-of-way to Noel’s expertise when it comes to model railroading.

 
David Bodnar
Electronics Editor
When you’re ready to “Bodnarize” your railroad, David’s the guy who puts the pedal to the metal. Our resident power ranger is all about automation and remote control.

 
Jo Anne
Sales Manager
What’s a nice lady like her, doing with a crew like this? Joanne is the grand dame of discounts. Better yet, she’ll keep your large-scale spending on the QT from spousal units if you ask politely.


How to use Bridges on Your Garden Railroad.

David Shadoan: I use cedar wood and it has been out for three years and it looks as good as it was new. I used brass wire to hold it together and glue. These are thru truss bridges one is 36" the other two are 16". I also made a girder bridge from aluminum.

Bob Gentile: Bridges, love building Howe Truss Compression Bridge. One thing to keep in mind, it would be nice to have a bridge that goes with your Garden Railroad era. If you are modeling modern and running Diesels, I guess metal bridges would look nice. My choice of wood material would be redwood, cedar or cypress in that order. I have a romance with Howe Truss bridges, just something about them that catches the eye. I have built several of them will over 6 ft and with a double track main line.

Larry Bangle: I took a metal wall stud. laid it open side up,and slid a 1x4x4 block at track joints and each end. before I slid the track and 1x4's in, I attached (screwed) a 2"x6"x8" cedar block on each end for embutments. The holes in the stud let rain water drain out. the 1x4s make the track stay in the trough perfectly,as the curve on the stud grips the ties on both sides.It was supposed to be temporary,but it worked so well,I sprayed it brown and it has been in place for two years with no problems. It is not a high bridge (about 6" off the ground) but it lets all surface water run off a 10' area that otherwise would be wet area holding rain water. The cost is only the price of the metal stud and paint.

Mike Evans: Sometimes it's best to just keep it simple. I have used a simple redwood plank for the track base and then fastened 3" wide thin redwood strips to the edges; looks like a regular thru girder bridge (from over 10 ft).

Roy Powers: I made 5 bridges out of western red cedar. The planking for the ties is Popsicle sticks with the rounded ends cut off. The metal truss rods are 2-56 threaded rods.


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Important Topics


Bridges

Buildings

Couplers

Getting Started

Grades

How Garden Trains Work

Live Steam

Wheels

How do I Figure out Grades on my Garden Railroad?

Lynn Rice: My first garden railroad had a very long double track mainline with a 3% grade and it worked fine. For that house and yard, it was the logical thing to do. My present garden train tracks are absolutely level and I believe that I can keep any likely expansions level as well. I had to do some cutting, filling and trestle-building to keep the track level. If you do your design right, rising and falling land around a layout can give the impression of grades while keeping the track level and easiest for trains to run on.

Joseph Cicerello: I think that the grades provide a more realistic setting and make the garden railroad much more interesting. I have been reading as much as possible as to the ability of certain engines to climb and I hope I do it right.

John Damkier: No grades, allows me to run very long consists which is what I enjoy. I do have hills for added interest and a dry riverbed for the tracks to bridge across.

Mike Evans: Original loop was pretty much flat. Redesigned and rebuilt last year to create a twice around plan with an up and over. If you keep the garden railroad grade gradual and under 2% (2" in 10 ft seems about right), most modern equipment will handle reasonable length trains.

Jerry Tupper: I have a grade on my garden railroad. It is more interesting than running the train on the level. Since I have experience in HO scale, I know the value of keeping the grades within 2% if at all possible.

Jeff Crotty: I tried to limit all my garden railroad grades to 2% or less, but in a few spots the grade is more like 4%. This doesn't seem to cause a problem, but it just doesn't look as realistic. I am presently revamping a large, high, curved trestle to help reduce excessive grade in a spot. It's a lot of work - but isn't that the fun of garden railroading?



Garden Railroad Builder's Logs
There is no better way to share your railroad than with a GRBLOGS. Garden Railroad Builder's Logs is a new blog service of LSOL.com. You can post information in an easy-to-use blog format as often as you like to keep people updated on the developments of your Garden Railroad. Keep your projects organized online in individual projects and show your photos, videos and more online for the whole world to see. Plus you can read other blogs and comment on all the exciting GRBLOGS that others have posted at the site.

Come see the first, the original and the best web blog dedicated to Garden Railroads. Remember: Some people talk about what they are going to do, and others actually do it. Come show people what you have done.


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