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What was your biggest Garden Train mistake?
Jerome McColgan: The lesson I learned was that there are a lot of helpful folks online but their advice should never be accepted without the realization that they may have totally different standards and objectives than I do and it is often best to get several opinions before doing anything that can have permanent or expensive results.
Joe Fotschky: Buying garden trains is not a wise investment if you plan to retire on the profits you make. Buy what you like and play with them. If some one gives you the line about collectors item, won't be around long etc etc. run like the wind a way from that person and spend your money else where. Scot Osterweil: My biggest mistake was with what I planted near the right of way. I like the garden trains running close to the plants, but in some cases I chose plants that either: a. flop across the rails as the season wears on (e.g. Irises); or b. constantly send up new shoots that intrude on the right of way (Coreopsis). Joe Slimak: My biggest mistake was not having a track plan before installing the falls and pond. Had I moved both of them 6” more towards the center of the layout, I would have been able to run 2 tracks around the outer edge. Haste makes waste. |
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How to use Bridges on Your Garden Railroad.
David Shadoan: I use cedar wood and it has been out for three years and it looks as good as it was new. I used brass wire to hold it together and glue. These are thru truss bridges one is 36" the other two are 16". I also made a girder bridge from aluminum.
Bob Gentile: Bridges, love building Howe Truss Compression Bridge. One thing to keep in mind, it would be nice to have a bridge that goes with your Garden Railroad era. If you are modeling modern and running Diesels, I guess metal bridges would look nice. My choice of wood material would be redwood, cedar or cypress in that order. I have a romance with Howe Truss bridges, just something about them that catches the eye. I have built several of them will over 6 ft and with a double track main line. Larry Bangle: I took a metal wall stud. laid it open side up,and slid a 1x4x4 block at track joints and each end. before I slid the track and 1x4's in, I attached (screwed) a 2"x6"x8" cedar block on each end for embutments. The holes in the stud let rain water drain out. the 1x4s make the track stay in the trough perfectly,as the curve on the stud grips the ties on both sides.It was supposed to be temporary,but it worked so well,I sprayed it brown and it has been in place for two years with no problems. It is not a high bridge (about 6" off the ground) but it lets all surface water run off a 10' area that otherwise would be wet area holding rain water. The cost is only the price of the metal stud and paint. Mike Evans: Sometimes it's best to just keep it simple. I have used a simple redwood plank for the track base and then fastened 3" wide thin redwood strips to the edges; looks like a regular thru girder bridge (from over 10 ft). Roy Powers: I made 5 bridges out of western red cedar. The planking for the ties is Popsicle sticks with the rounded ends cut off. The metal truss rods are 2-56 threaded rods. |
Garden Railroad Builder's Logs
There is no better way to share your railroad than with a GRBLOGS. Garden Railroad Builder's Logs is a new blog service of LSOL.com. You can post information in an easy-to-use blog format as often as you like to keep people updated on the developments of your Garden Railroad. Keep your projects organized online in individual projects and show your photos, videos and more online for the whole world to see. Plus you can read other blogs and comment on all the exciting GRBLOGS that others have posted at the site.Come see the first, the original and the best web blog dedicated to Garden Railroads. Remember: Some people talk about what they are going to do, and others actually do it. Come show people what you have done.
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